I have the KV32xbr400. As soon as I hit the power button, the led flashes roughly 7 times I hear the tv make the humming noise....and then returns to standby mode. There is no picture or sound anytime. If I immediately try to power on again, the LED flashes 5 times and the tv does not make the humming noise.
If I let the tv sit unplugged for several weeks, I can plug it back in and it will power up sometimes. It will stay on until turned off. I accidentally turned it off a couple weeks ago.
The service manual for the DX1A chassis (KV-32XBR400, KV-36XBR400) says that 7 flashes is a problem with the H-stop, but lists no probable cause. For all of the other blinks (2-6) it lists the probable cause.
Does anyone know the specific fix for 7 LED flashes? Can anyone narrow down this indicated problem to the specific faulty components...such as is done in the service manual? I expect that something on the D-board is faulty, but I would rather not waste too much money replacing the whole board.
Also, am I counting the LED flashes properly? Sometimes the last LED flash appears to flash on/off quicker than the previous ones.
My tv is roughly 5 years old and I guess I have been "lucky" to have it last that long considering all of the Sony problems listed here.
Probable Cause Location/Detected Symptoms
Display of Standby/Timer LED Flash Count *One flash count is not used for self-diagnostic. 2 LED flashes (+B overcurrent (OCP)) • H.OUT (Q5030) is shorted. (D board) • +B PWM (Q5003) is shorted. (D board) • IC9001,9002, 9003 is shorted.(C board) - Power does not come on. - Load on power line is shorted.
3 LED flashes (+B overvoltage (OVP)) • IC6505 is faulty. (D Board) - Has entered standby mode.
4 LED Flashes (Vertical deflection stopped) • +/-15V is not supplied.(D board) • IC 5004 is faulty. (D board) - Has entered standby state after horizontal raster. - Vertical deflection pulse is stopped. - Power line is shorted or power supply is stopped.
5 LED flashes (White balance failure (not balanced)) • Video OUT (IC9001-9003) is faulty. (C board) • CRT Drive (IC201) is faulty.(A Board) • G2 is improperly adjusted. - No raster is generated. - CRT cathode current detection reference pulse output is small
6 LED Flashes (LOW B OCP/OVP (overcurrent/overvoltage)) • +5 line is overloaded.(A, B Boards) • +5 line is shorted.(A, B Boards) • IC6007 is faulty. (A Board) - No picture
Joined: Mar 13, 2003
Posts: 13788
From: Sewell, NJ
Posted: 2006-10-28 16:11
Welcome to Agoraquest! Unfortunately, there are no specific fixes. Unless you can find a tech that can afford the time to actually troubleshoot the set, the usual "fix" is to replace the D board. There are a number of threads on this subject that you should be able to locate with the Agoraquest search engine located at the bottom of the FORUMS page.
----------------- -John
Sony A/V System: KDL-55XBR8, BDP-S550, AVD-C700ES Super Audio CD/DVD Receiver, 4 SS-LA500ED surround speakers, 1 SS-LAC505ED center channel speaker and 1 SA-WD200 Active Subwoofer
After further testing, my set has now settled into a 6 LED flashing status indication. So I began troubleshooting the schematic looking for possible culprits on the 5v supplies and also with IC6007.
Measuring IC6007, I found that its output was as expected. I have also checked voltages at several locations on the PCB: (started troubleshooting from AC in, working my way in)
A-Board (notes) IC6011: o:5v i:15v (expected i:8.1) D6020: 30v (expected 15v or "stby15v") T6002: pins 7,8,9 all 15v CN001/CN3202: OK (SET9v, SET5v, 3.3v all good) CN6006/CN6505: STBY 5v OK (missing: 33v, main 5v, 9v, & 12v
So I guess, at this point I am trying to find "MAIN 5v" test points to try and locate where the 5v has failed. It seems that Stby 5v is OK in a couple of areas on the PCB. Will do more checking and re-post later tonight.
Any suggestions on where to further check for the 5v failure that is indicated by the 6 LED flashes?
P.S. - I found that I get 10 or 11 blinks if I leave CN6005 disconnected. Saw some previous posts about 11 LED blinks.
D211 - 5v measured on the SET 5v side. D211 - 0v measured on the Main 5v side. CN705 - 0v measured at 9v pin, 0v measured on 5v pin. CN6006 - 5v measured on pin 8 (Stby 5v), all other pins 0-1v. CN5005 - pin 5 = 0v (Main 5v), pin 7 = 1v (Main 9v).
So where does all of this point me? Best I can tell so far is that I need to look at IC5008 (pin 5), IC6501 and the associated protection circuitry. That's the best I can come up with so far. Since IC6501 has been cited in numerous posts on here, I was already suspicious of it anyway.
I feel like I am slowly narrowing this down, although it has taken me quite a while to follow through these complicated schematics. Cross your fingers, maybe I can save this TV yet.
If not, I'm sure Plasmas and LCDs are getting cheaper by the second with Christmas coming soon.
I have not fixed the issue, yet. I am currently waiting for some replacement ICs to show up so I can replace IC6501. I will do some more checking this weekend to see if I can find any other failing parts around IC6501, but based on a lot of posts I have seen on here, I really feel like this is the problem (or it is one of the problems). I guess I'll know more later this weekend.
Will you need to remove your D-Board in order to replace IC6501? Or can you do that with the board rotated to the service postion?
One tip that I was given by a local service technician was to cut the body of the IC off the legs so that each of the legs could be removed individually. This is apparently easier than trying to remove the entire IC.
I've also read that it sometimes makes sense to install an IC socket in the original IC location. This minimizes the risk of overheating the IC since you can install the socket by itself. I don't know if this is a viable option for your repair but it's worth considering.
Bob
[ This message was edited by: BobF on 2007-01-10 16:45 ]
Last night I removed the old IC, and I have to say that I wish I had cut the legs first. It was pretty difficult getting the IC out. When it finally did come out, it took some conductive strip with it that was attached to pin 5.
So now I am going to have to probably solder in some jumpers to make sure everything is still connected properly. I am also going to try installing an IC socket if I can find one at a local electronics store. Sounds like a good idea if it will fit in the space.
You can remove the chip in the service position, the only problem is that your soldering iron is going to be very close to the plastic cross beam. Personally, I wasn't woried about a few burn marks on it. I figure that IF I can get this TV working again, I will keep it for another year or two, then probably trash it anyway. Plasmas and LCDs should be even better by then and cheaper. Might know more this weekend.
[ This message was edited by: ihatetomatoes on 2006-11-10 11:34 ]
I'm considering a similar IC replacement on my 36XBR400.
What type of soldering iron did you use? I've read on some electronics forums that temperature controlled soldering stations are nice for circuit board work.
Did you access the chip from the top of the circuit board? Was that difficult?
When you install a socket or the IC, will you apply the solder from the top of the board also? Or could you solder it from the bottom of the board?
On the IC sockets, I have seen these for sale online. Do a Google search for "IC socket" and "18 pin". Radio Shack and Fry's Electronics also sell them.
Again, best of luck with the repair.
Bob
[ This message was edited by: BobF on 2007-01-10 16:46 ]
Since I damaged the underlying conductive trail when removing the old IC, I am planning on adding wire jumpers to make sure the circuit path connections to the IC are still good.
I have found it difficult to find an 18 pin socket locally so I'm not sure I'll add that....but I have a friend that may have a few that I can use. So we'll see what happens.
I have an Ungar 921ZX soldering iron and it worked as well as any other I would suspect. I think you will find it quite annoying to remove the old IC6501. This would be so much easier if they had used a socket to begin with. I removed the IC by heating from the bottom side of the PCB. It is difficult to reach from the top. I suggest getting some small cutters and clipping the pins as best you can before you try to remove the solder.
On my end, I have removed the aft case of my 36XBR400 and I pulled the entire chassis assembly rearward. But I'm not quite sure how to rotate the A and the D Boards up into the service position. Feel free to offer advice on that.
Your 32XBR400 might not be identical to my 36XBR400 but I would guess that they are pretty similar in construction. (I think the D-Board itself may be identical.)
Based on your experience, I will definitely remove the IC body and desolder the legs one at a time.
I was able to buy 18 pin IC sockets at my local Fry's Electronics the other day. I will use these sockets for any IC replacements.
Based on advice from a local TV service technician, I'm considering the replacement of three MCZ3001D ICs, two on the D-Board and one on the A-Board.
Thanks for the information on your Unger soldering iron. I decided to buy a better iron than what I have now.
Do you have any advice for removing the original solder? I have copper solder wick and a couple of inexpensive "vacuum sucker" tools but I'm not really sure which would be best for this application.
Again, best of luck with your repair.
Bob
[ This message was edited by: BobF on 2007-01-10 16:49 ]
I have now replaced two of the 3 ICs that are MCZ3001D chips. Both times I used desoldering wick. On the second chip, IC6001, it was easier to access the chip and I was able to do a better job. Again without cutting the pins, I was able to get this IC out. This time I made sure to desolder better than before, and was able to get the IC out without any damages to the copper clad below. A few of the copper IC pin hole contacts came out, but that was all. This IC was easier to remove mostly because its location was easy to access from both the top and bottom of the pcb. Resoldering in the 18-pin socket was a snap on this IC6001 location. I was done in about 10 minutes.
One other item you will probably need is a chip puller.
After replacing 2/3 of these type ICs, I still have a problem, so I may go ahead and try to replace IC8002....plus do more troubleshooting of the PCB.
To rotate the board up, just disconnect the snaps/clips on the front board with the power switch on it (leave the wires connected) and rotate the whole bottom of the tv up just like is shown in the service manual.
To do your solder work you may have to diconnect several of the wires running to the pcb. I have at one time or another disconnected all of them except for the extremely High voltage lines running to the tube. I didn't want to mess with the high voltage lines very much at all. Disconnecting to other wires will let you rotate the pcb in a way that makes soldering/IC replacement easier. Also I would just go ahead and remove the speakers from the cabinet and leave them out until the t.v. works again. Removing these will give you more room to view things. Make sure to label any wires you remove so you can put them back where they went....most of them can only go in one spot and in only one plug direction. There is a pair of Black/White connectors on the right side of the A board that go to the tube that have the same type connector...so make sure you label them.
Thanks for the update and all of the tips. That's extremely helpful. I feel like I can move forward now. The board rotation tips were especially helpful.
I think I have a chip puller so I'll go dig that up. I bought some solder wick and one of the Radio Shack "blue tube" vacuum tubes for desoldering.
It didn't even occur to me to remove the speakers. That's a great idea.
And I will definitely label all of the cables before disconnecting anything. I've taken many digital photos also.
When the copper IC pin hole contacts came out, did you need to replace those and, if so, was that difficult?
For your repair, I would definitely replace the IC in the IC8002 location. There was another Agoraquest forum member that repaired his KV-32XBR400 by replacing only the IC in that location. Here's that thread if you haven't seen it yet:
Over the holiday, I replaced the final MCZ3301D (IC8002). Still not working. Started troubleshooting again from the beginning. Specifically tried to troubleshoot the circuit listed in the Self-Diagnostic Circuit. I am still getting 6 blinks, so my last guess is that IC6007 is bad or another component in the line between there and IC701. I looked online and have not been able to find any suppliers for a replacement chip for IC6007. So the bottom line is that I might try troubleshooting when I can over then next week or so...but if I am at the same place in 2 weeks, then the tv is going in the dumpster.
So unless anyone has any other ideas....I predict that after all of my hard work, I will still have a 150lb paperweight in 2 weeks. Cheers.
Thanks for the update. I'm sorry that replacing the third MCZ3001D IC did not fix your TV.
My TV is still having problems after an initial repair attempt.
I took a look at the locations of the two ICs on the D-Board and the single one on the A-Board and I decided that I might not be up to the task of replacing them. There just seemed to be very little room to access the ICs.
So I brought the chassis to a local electronics technician and he agreed to remove and replace all three ICs for $45. I thought that was reasonable and I asked him to go ahead. For a moment, everything was looking great.
Unfortunately, he spent about 45 minutes attempting to remove the first IC in the IC8002 location without any luck. He was using soldering wick and he was unable to get enough solder out to free the IC. He finally gave up and apologized for his inability to complete the job.
Not wanting to leave it at that, I decided to give it a shot. So I removed the body of the IC by clipping the legs off. I then desoldered and removed the legs one at a time. That went pretty quickly with the exception of one leg which, for some reason, took about 15 minutes. I then soldered in an 18 pin socket and mounted the replacment IC in the socket.
I then reinstalled the chassis, plugged in the set, and......drumroll please...... I got the same 5 flash standby indication that I got before the IC replacement. So no joy in Mudville here.
I will now attempt to replace the second D-Board MCZ3001D and see if that works.
Thanks again for your update. Hopefully some other forum members will have some other suggestions.
BTW, there is a company called tristatemodule.com that will repair the various Sony boards. For example, they will repair an XBR400 D-Board for about $150 + shipping. That might not be a bad option if you can convince yourself that the D-Board is the source of the problem. And it's cheaper than Sony's current $243 charge for a refurbished D-Board.
Bob
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