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Ok I've given up on fixing my t.v. After a lot of work and time spent, I still get 6 LED blinks. Does anyone want parts before I throw the thing in the dumpster? I live near Baltimore, MD. Flat panel - here I come.....
I forgot to mention that I found what appears to be several discrepancies between the schematic diagrams and the component locator views found in the service manual. Beware. There appear to be several other resistors, capacitors, etc. actually on the board that are not shown in the schematics in all places. Just blow up the area around IC6001, IC6501, and IC8002 on the component view and compare the copper traces/connections to the connections shown in the schematic. You will find that the copper trails often run to other components that are not listed anywhere else in the service manua ..
Over the holiday, I replaced the final MCZ3301D (IC8002). Still not working. Started troubleshooting again from the beginning. Specifically tried to troubleshoot the circuit listed in the Self-Diagnostic Circuit. I am still getting 6 blinks, so my last guess is that IC6007 is bad or another component in the line between there and IC701. I looked online and have not been able to find any suppliers for a replacement chip for IC6007. So the bottom line is that I might try troubleshooting when I can over then next week or so...but if I am at the same place in 2 weeks, then the tv is going in ..
I have now replaced two of the 3 ICs that are MCZ3001D chips. Both times I used desoldering wick. On the second chip, IC6001, it was easier to access the chip and I was able to do a better job. Again without cutting the pins, I was able to get this IC out. This time I made sure to desolder better than before, and was able to get the IC out without any damages to the copper clad below. A few of the copper IC pin hole contacts came out, but that was all. This IC was easier to remove mostly because its location was easy to access from both the top and bottom of the pcb. Resoldering in the 18-p ..
Since I damaged the underlying conductive trail when removing the old IC, I am planning on adding wire jumpers to make sure the circuit path connections to the IC are still good. I have found it difficult to find an 18 pin socket locally so I'm not sure I'll add that....but I have a friend that may have a few that I can use. So we'll see what happens. I have an Ungar 921ZX soldering iron and it worked as well as any other I would suspect. I think you will find it quite annoying to remove the old IC6501. This would be so much easier if they had used a socket to begin wi ..
Last night I removed the old IC, and I have to say that I wish I had cut the legs first. It was pretty difficult getting the IC out. When it finally did come out, it took some conductive strip with it that was attached to pin 5. So now I am going to have to probably solder in some jumpers to make sure everything is still connected properly. I am also going to try installing an IC socket if I can find one at a local electronics store. Sounds like a good idea if it will fit in the space. You can remove the chip in the service position, the only problem is that your soldering iron ..
I have not fixed the issue, yet. I am currently waiting for some replacement ICs to show up so I can replace IC6501. I will do some more checking this weekend to see if I can find any other failing parts around IC6501, but based on a lot of posts I have seen on here, I really feel like this is the problem (or it is one of the problems). I guess I'll know more later this weekend.
Did some more testing: D211 - 5v measured on the SET 5v side. D211 - 0v measured on the Main 5v side. CN705 - 0v measured at 9v pin, 0v measured on 5v pin. CN6006 - 5v measured on pin 8 (Stby 5v), all other pins 0-1v. CN5005 - pin 5 = 0v (Main 5v), pin 7 = 1v (Main 9v). So where does all of this point me? Best I can tell so far is that I need to look at IC5008 (pin 5), IC6501 and the associated protection circuitry. That's the best I can come up with so far. Since IC6501 has been cited in numerous posts on here, I was already suspicious of it anyway. I fee ..
Can any of you provide any details as to which specific parts had gone bad on your d-boards when your T.V.'s were showing you the 6-LED flash blink code? I have the same problem and the Manual says to check IC6007 and the +5 Volt lines (either overloaded or shorted A/B boards.) Thanks
After further testing, my set has now settled into a 6 LED flashing status indication. So I began troubleshooting the schematic looking for possible culprits on the 5v supplies and also with IC6007. Measuring IC6007, I found that its output was as expected. I have also checked voltages at several locations on the PCB: (started troubleshooting from AC in, working my way in) A-Board (notes) IC6011: o:5v i:15v (expected i:8.1) D6020: 30v (expected 15v or "stby15v") T6002: pins 7,8,9 all 15v CN001/CN3202: OK (SET9v, SET5v, 3.3v all good) CN6006/CN6505: STBY ..
I have the KV32xbr400. As soon as I hit the power button, the led flashes roughly 7 times I hear the tv make the humming noise....and then returns to standby mode. There is no picture or sound anytime. If I immediately try to power on again, the LED flashes 5 times and the tv does not make the humming noise. If I let the tv sit unplugged for several weeks, I can plug it back in and it will power up sometimes. It will stay on until turned off. I accidentally turned it off a couple weeks ago. The service manual for the DX1A chassis (KV-32XBR400, KV-36XBR400) says that 7 flashes&nbs ..
I have the KV32xbr400. As soon as I hit the power button, the led flashes roughly 7 times I hear the tv make the humming noise....and then returns to standby mode. There is no picture or sound anytime. If I immediately try to power on again, the LED flashes 5 times and the tv does not make the humming noise. If I let the tv sit unplugged for several weeks, I can plug it back in and it will power up sometimes. It will stay on until turned off. Accidentally turned it off a couple weeks ago. The service manual for the DX1A chassis says that 7 flashes is a problem with t ..
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